Sunday, July 26, 2009

Milan and Mallow Cookies

The July Daring Baker Challenge was hosted by Nicole of Sweet Tooth. She chose Chocolate Cover Marshmallow Cookies and Milan Cookies from Pastry Chef Gale Gand of the Food Network.



I was excited to make cookies. I like cookies. I have never had a Milano cookie, which the Milan cookies are replicating. But I figured they would be fun to make, since I know so many people that like them a whole lot. I knew the mallow cookies would be fun. I made marshmallow once before and thought it was fun, so it was a real treat to get to make them again.
I started with the Milan cookies. They were pretty easy to make. The hardest part was getting them consistent in size and shape. It took a bit of trial and error, but I still had to do some "matching-up" when making the sandwiches. The cookie batter is a bit runnier than I am used to piping with. Kiah had fun helping me. Kids always like extruding things. For those that want the info, tip #44 is 1/4 inch. I don't have that tip, so I used #47, which is technically a basket weave tip, but the cookie batter was so thin, it didn't hold she peaks and valleys. So it worked great.
I also had to cut down on the time in the oven. Since I have an older oven, it seems to be a bit inconsistent. I really need to get a thermometer for it. To help a bit with the imperfections, I dipped them in Chocolate.

The Mallow cookies were fun. I made 2 kinds. The first one I used the cookie dough in the recipe. But I added an almond and rolled in coconut after the marshmallow was applied. I then dipped in Chocolate. I also used coconut oil for thinning the chocolate for dipping.
For my second marshmallow cookie I made a Super Duper S'More. When I lived in San Diego I had the chance to go to many beach bonfires. We frequently had S'Mores. I remember one bonfire when we were not going to have S'Mores. One guy who was there was a little upset by this fact. I'll call him "Don." Don reminded us all of Forrest Gump. He is a nice guy, just a bit slow on the social cues and understanding. We told Don we were not going to have S'Mores. He felt it was against the natural order of having a bonfire to InotI have S'Mores. So we told him if he wanted them he had to go and buy the makings. When Don got back with the makings we all chuckled a little bit. He came back with cinnamon graham crackers, marshmallows, and Peanutbutter cups. I remember a LOT of people rolled their eyes and said it was impossible, but let me tell you, that was hands down the best S'More I have EVER had. SOOOOOO, this cookie is actually named Don's Super-Duper S'More cookie. The funny thing is, he would probably hate the actual cookie, but would secretly like the fact that I named it after him.
For Don's cookie I made a cinnamon "graham" cracker. (I didn't have any graham flour, so it is as close as I could make it without actual graham.) I found a recipe here.
2 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (375 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour (a swap of 1/2 cup with whole wheat flour or 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour works well here, too)
1 cup (176 grams) dark brown sugar, lightly packed
1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda
3/4 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt (4 grams)
7 tablespoons (3 1/2 ounces or 100 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen
1/3 cup (114 grams) mild-flavored honey, such as clover
5 tablespoons (77 grams) milk, full-fat is best
2 tablespoons (27 grams) pure vanilla extract
Topping (optional)
3 tablespoons (43 grams) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon (5 grams) ground cinnamon
Make the dough: Combine the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off on and off, or mix on low, until the mixture is the consistency of a coarse meal.
[Alternately, if you don't have a food processor or electric mixer, you can cut the ingredients together with a pastry blender. Just make sure they're very well incorporated.]
In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, milk, and vanilla extract. Add to the flour mixture and pulse on and off a few times or mix on low until the dough barely comes together. It will be very soft and sticky. Lay out a large piece of plastic wrap and dust it lightly with flour, then turn the dough out onto it and pat it into a rectangle about 1-inch thick. Wrap it, then chill it until firm, about 2 hours or overnight. Meanwhile, prepare the topping, if using, by combining the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl and setting aside.
Roll out the crackers: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. Sift an even layer of flour onto the work surface and roll the dough into a long rectangle about 1/8 inch thick. The dough will be sticky, so flour as necessary. Trim the edges of the rectangle to 4 inches wide. Working with the shorter side of the rectangle parallel to the work surface, cut the strip every 4 1/2 inches to make 4 crackers.

Place the crackers on one or two parchment-lined baking sheets and sprinkle with the topping. Chill until firm, about 30 to 45 minutes in the fridge or 15 to 20 minutes in the freezer. Repeat with the second batch of dough. Finally, gather any scraps together into a ball, chill until firm, and re-roll.
Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Decorate the crackers: Mark a vertical line down the middle of each cracker, being careful not to cut through the dough (again, this is for the traditional cracker shape). Using a toothpick or skewer (I like to use the blunt end of a wooden skewer for more dramatic dots), prick the dough to form two dotted rows about 1/2 inch for each side of the dividing line.
Bake for 15 to 25 minutes, until browned and slightly firm to the touch, rotating the sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.
The graham with Marshmallow
I then made a sweetened peanut butter to add after the marshmallow. The peanut butter mix was a bit tricky. I think it depends a great deal on how much sugar and oil is already in the peanut butter you use. I just kept adding and mixing. I think I used equal parts of peanut butter and powdered sugar with a little bit of butter to add moisture. It was VERY thick and much harder to extrude than I anticipated. I sprinkled with some more cinnamon. I them dipped in chocolate. I used Vegetable shortening instead of oil for the dipping.
I had some difficulty with the chocolate I used for dipping. It set-up fine, but the melting point was low on the chocolate, so it melted with the heat of your fingers and was very messy. So I made some additional "decoration," which was more of a hope of keeping the handeling of the cookie a cleaner affair. The Milan cookies were ok because only one half was dipped, so you held the other end. The almond and coconut (sorta an Almond joy like cookie) was dipped in more chocolate and the top rolled on more coconut. And the S'More cookie was dipped in a sugar, cocoa powder, and cinnamon mix. I think it actually made the cookies much more attractive. I LOVE it when form and function can come together in such harmony.







The Recipes as I received them:

Mallows(Chocolate Covered Marshmallow Cookies)
Recipe courtesy Gale Gand, from Food Network website
Chocolate Covered Marshmallow Cookies
Prep Time: 10 min
Inactive Prep Time: 5 min
Cook Time: 10 min
Serves: about 2 dozen cookies
• 3 cups (375grams/13.23oz) all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup (112.5grams/3.97oz) white sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 3/8 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 12 tablespoons (170grams/ 6 oz) unsalted butter
• 3 eggs, whisked together
• Homemade marshmallows, recipe follows
• Chocolate glaze, recipe follows
1. In a mixer with the paddle attachment, blend the dry ingredients.
2. On low speed, add the butter and mix until sandy.
3. Add the eggs and mix until combine.
4. Form the dough into a disk, wrap with clingfilm or parchment and refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.
5. When ready to bake, grease a cookie sheet or line it with parchment paper or a silicon mat.
6. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
7. Roll out the dough to 1/8-inch thickness, on a lightly floured surface. Use a 1 to 1 1/2 inches cookie cutter to cut out small rounds of dough.
8. Transfer to the prepared pan and bake for 10 minutes or until light golden brown. Let cool to room temperature.
9. Pipe a “kiss” of marshmallow onto each cookie. Let set at room temperature for 2 hours.
10. Line a cookie sheet with parchment or silicon mat.
11. One at a time, gently drop the marshmallow-topped cookies into the hot chocolate glaze.
12. Lift out with a fork and let excess chocolate drip back into the bowl.
13. Place on the prepared pan and let set at room temperature until the coating is firm, about 1 to 2 hours.
Note: if you don’t want to make your own marshmallows, you can cut a large marshmallow in half and place on the cookie base. Heat in a preheated 350-degree oven to slump the marshmallow slightly, it will expand and brown a little. Let cool, then proceed with the chocolate dipping.
Homemade marshmallows:
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/4 cup light corn syrup
• 3/4 cup (168.76 grams/5.95oz) sugar
• 1 tablespoon powdered gelatin
• 2 tablespoons cold water
• 2 egg whites , room temperature
• 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1. In a saucepan, combine the water, corn syrup, and sugar, bring to a boil until “soft-ball” stage, or 235 degrees on a candy thermometer.
2. Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water and let dissolve.
3. Remove the syrup from the heat, add the gelatin, and mix.
4. Whip the whites until soft peaks form and pour the syrup into the whites.
5. Add the vanilla and continue whipping until stiff.
6. Transfer to a pastry bag.
Chocolate glaze:
• 12 ounces semisweet chocolate
• 2 ounces cocoa butter or vegetable oil
1. Melt the 2 ingredients together in the top of a double boiler or a bowl set over barely simmering water.
Milan Cookies
Recipe courtesy Gale Gand, from Food Network website
Milan Cookies
Prep Time: 20 min
Inactive Prep Time: 0 min
Cook Time: 1 hr 0 min
Serves: about 3 dozen cookies
• 12 tablespoons (170grams/ 6 oz) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 1/2 cups (312.5 grams/ 11.02 oz) powdered sugar
• 7/8 cup egg whites (from about 6 eggs)
• 2 tablespoons vanilla extract
• 2 tablespoons lemon extract
• 1 1/2 cups (187.5grams/ 6.61 oz) all purpose flour
• Cookie filling, recipe follows
Cookie filling:
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 1 orange, zested
1. In a mixer with paddle attachment cream the butter and the sugar.
2. Add the egg whites gradually and then mix in the vanilla and lemon extracts.
3. Add the flour and mix until just well mixed.
4. With a small (1/4-inch) plain tip, pipe 1-inch sections of batter onto a parchment-lined sheet pan, spacing them 2 inches apart as they spread.
5. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 10 minutes or until light golden brown around the edges. Let cool on the pan.
6. While waiting for the cookies to cool, in a small saucepan over medium flame, scald cream.
7. Pour hot cream over chocolate in a bowl, whisk to melt chocolate, add zest and blend well.
8. Set aside to cool (the mixture will thicken as it cools).
9. Spread a thin amount of the filling onto the flat side of a cookie while the filling is still soft and press the flat side of a second cookie on top.
10. Repeat with the remainder of the cookies.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Skate with Taditional Flavors Powdered

This months Daring Cook Challenge was an adventure in molecular cuisine. We made Skate with Traditional Flavors Powdered.

I have to admit, I was a bit apprehensive about this challenge, and I wasn't the only one. The challenge was far more strict with its permitted substitutions. This is a big drawback for me since I live with some picky eaters. But I decided to take the challenge and make it work.

I made the fish (cod) with banana for myself as the challenge dictated and chicken with plantain for Chris since he does not eat fish and he LOVES plantains. But the real challenge was making the powders without a dehydrator.

It took me quite some time to make this meal. The powders took some time, I think it would have been much easier in a dehydrator.

The parsley and cilantro were really fast. I am not exactly sure why we had to blanch them first, I wouldn't think the color would change that much, but I did it. It took about twice as long in the microwave as the directions stated, but that only totals 2 min. Not a biggie. I should have stopped there, cuz I did start to burn (read: a small fire started int he microwave) the mix in the microwave. It ended-up with a smokey flavor.

I don't have a coffee grinder and I didn't want to buy one so I used my mini food processor.

There wasn't a time on the capers. So I just kept zapin'em. I think it took a total of about 8-10 min. to get them really dry. I ran the onion through the food processor first and then made sure to stir them multiple times through the cooking. I also took them out a few times to let the steam escape. Since the humidity is a bit higher here I suspected things might take a bit longer. I think it took about 30-35 min for the onion.

I used the powdered milk to make the brown butter powder. It was pretty easy.

Instead of lemon I decided to use orange. The orange took awhile. Probably 15-20 min. Again I was constantly rotating and flipping the orange peels. Because we had to poach the zest first I kept the zest in bigger pieces, which might have added to the time as well.

I thought I would try some other powders as well. I thought a nice combo with the orange would be something a bit tropical. I guess the citrus with the banana made me think of it. So I thought coconut, and macadamia nut would be tasty. The coconut was very dry and unsweetened. I found it at Whole Foods. But I decided I could get it a bit finer, but it just released the oils so it came out a bit clumpy. I am not versed enough in Molecular cooking to know how to fix that, so I just left it alone.

I wanted to toast the nuts a bit first. I forgot about them, oops! So I burnt them instead.
So I went with a back-up plan, almonds. I didn't have time to try and dry them any more, so they, too, were a bit clumpy.

Finally, I thought portabella mushrooms might be fun. I couldn't get them very powdered. But what the heck, I already had 2 clumpy "powders" what is one more.
So it was time to move onto the meal. I sliced the green beans.I then made my Beurre Monte. I knew the chicken would take the longest so I cooked it first. Since the plantain I found was a bit great I decided it would best be served mashed. So I poached it with the chicken in the the Beurre Monte. I used the thermometer on the chicken, just to make sure.
Once they were done, I mashed the plantains, then I began to cook the green beans and poach the fish.
It seemed to go pretty smoothly. Here is the chicken and plantain dish plated with the brown butter powder on top. I had all 6 powders swirled under the plantain mash.
Here is the cod with the brown butter on top and the bananas beneath. I decided to make 2 swirls for the fish. On one side I had the orange, almond, and coconut. The other side had onion/caper, parsley/cilantro, and mushroom.

Both Chris and I enjoyed the meal. The interesting part was my banana. It was the sweetest banana I had ever eaten. So my meal ended-up pretty sweet. We agreed it was not something we would want all the time, but for a special or fun occasion it is a nice little change. We both found the orange powder VERY overpowering. It was an intense flavor. I also thought it was a bit bitter, like eating an orange rind. And since that is what it is made of, it wasn't too surprising. The mushroom had a nice woody flavor.






The recipe as I received it:

Skate, Traditional Flavors Powdered - with changes

  • 4 skate wings
  • * Beurre monte
  • * 300g fresh green beans
  • sea salt/kosher salt
  • 1 banana
  • 454g butter - 4 sticks
  • 300g lemons
  • 5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet
  • 150g cilantro
  • 150g parsley
  • 100g dried banana chips
  • 300g spray dried cream powder (or powdered milk)
  • 100g cup minced red onion
  • 200g capers (brined, not oil)
* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm)
* Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.
Powders - prepare ahead of time
caper / onion
lemon powder
cilantro/parsley powder
'brown butter' powder
Powders
once dried, all powders should be pulsed in a coffee grinder/spice mill/morter and pestle then passed through a chinois or fine mesh strainer.
citrus powder
300g lemons
1000g simple syrup
5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet
zest 300g of lemons (10.6 oz), remove the pith from the zest and poach in the simple syrup three times. dry with paper towels and move to a dehydrating tray. 130 for 12 hours. pulse the zest in a coffee grinder, pass through chinois, and mix with citric acid/vitamin C powder.
If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 8 to 10 minutes at medium powder. Once dried, follow the other instructions.
cilantro/parsley powder
150g cilantro
150g parsley
blanch the parsley in boiling saltwater for 1 second, submerge the leaves in ice water for 3 minutes. Dry on paper towels and place on dehydrator tray. 130 for 12 hours. grind and pass through chinois.
If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 30 seconds, turn over leaves and microwave for another thirty seconds. They should be dry by now, pulse in coffee grinder, pass through chinois and reserve.
onion powder
100g cup minced red onions
dehydrator - 130 for 12 hours
microwave at medium power for 20 minutes.
pulse in grinder, pass through chinois
Caper powder
200g capers (get the ones packed in brine/vinegar)
run the capers under cold water for two minutes to remove some of the brine.
dry on paper towels and dehydrate for 12 hours at 130 degrees.
microwave instructions are unclear. Dry them as much a possible with paper towels, the microwave on medium for 1 minute. Check the moisture content and stir them. repeat for 30 second intervals until they are dry. If you use this method, pleas post the time needed to dry the capers.
Once dry, pulse and sift the powder. Mix it with the onion powder.
Brown Butter powder
100g Dried banana chips (unsweetened if possible - many are coated in honey - the freeze dried ones would be brilliant)
300g spray dried cream powder
If you cannot find the cream powder, you can substitute Bob's red mill non fat dry milk powder, or even carnation instant milk powder. The substitutions will alter the flavor a little, but you will still get the general idea.
preheat the oven to 350 degrees, sift the cream powder into a fine layer on a silpat or on parchment. bake for 4 minutes, then remove for heat. If it bakes for too long, it will burn. Be very cautious with all powders in the oven. They all go from browned to burnt in a few seconds.
grind the banana chips in a coffee grinder and mix with the toasted cream powder. Pass this through a chinois and reserve.


* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm)
* Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.
Skate
Prepare the skate - 50G v shaped cuts are recommended
Bring 100g water, 100g beurre monte, and green bean rounds to a boil over high heat. Cook until the water has evaporated (about 3 minutes), when the pan is almost dry, remove it from heat and season with 3g salt
bring 300g water and 300g beurre monte to simmer over medium heat, add skate wings and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and flip the wing over and let rest in pan for two more minutes. Transfer to warming tray lined with parchment and season with 5 grams of fine sea salt.
Plating

Take the tip of a small spoon and make a small mound of the citrus powder, the onion-caper powder, and the cilantro parsley-powder. Swirl these around in a hurricane type pattern. I found that it is easier, and you get finer lines if you lightly shake the plate to flatten out the mounds, then swirl the spoon through it to get the pattern.
peel the remaining banana into very think slices (3mm) fan three slices on the plate, place green beans on top and place skate wing portion on top. On the tall edge, sprinkle the brown butter powder.


Substitutions
The Skate can be replaced with flounder or cod.
If you can get skate that is not 'prepared' IE - Skinned- get the fish monger to prepare it for you.
The powdered cream can be omitted completely, just replace it with more banana powder, or pineapple powder. Possibly non dairy creamer, but I have NO idea what would happen if you tried to brown it.
The poaching liquid is pretty much butter - it could be replaced with other poaching methods. Water, wine, bay leaf, garlic clove, pepper, etc. Try to go easy on the salt in the liquid if you use a replacement.
Disclaimer - the sample dish was made with cod because Skate was not available at the time in Richmond. Whole Foods usually carries it. Check your fish markets before you head out to buy some.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Teething Biscuits!


I have been meaning to post this for awhile. But it just hasn't happened.

Some time ago my sister in-law sent me a recipe for . (Thanks Sheila!)
They are GREAT! They are nice and hard so they last and do break apart all over the place!

1 1/2 c unbleached flour
1/2 c whole wheat flour
1/2 c maple syrup
3 tbsp applesauce
Heat oven to 300. Place all ingredients in a medium bowl and stir with a wooden spoon until dough begins to hold together. Dust counter with flour, then transfer contents of bowl to counter. Knead lightly until the dough is smooth, about 3 minutes. (If the dough is difficult to handle, dust with a little more flour) Roll out with a rolling pin until 1/3 inch thick. Cut out biscuits using an inverted cup and a clean bottle cap, milk lid, or your thumb for the hole. Transfer biscuits to a greased cookie sheet. Bake until barely browned, about 35 minutes. let cool completely on cookie sheet. They are ready to eat now or they will harden slightly more if you leave them out overnight. Store for up to two weeks in an airtight container.

I did not cut them into circles. I just cut rectangles. (Though I did see some recently at a friends house and she had taken the time to make the rings and they were a easier for the babies to hold. Next time!)
I have kept mine for more than 2 weeks. I think they have gotten a bit harder, even with the ridiculous humidity. (I guess My A/C is pulling more moisture out than I realized)